After months exploring the Ocklawaha River, I finally reached its end, the point where it meets the St. Johns River. But instead of a conclusion, I only found a beginning, a labyrinth of connection. This is the beginning of Field Notes.

Captain Erika Ritter remembers the Ocklawaha River before the destruction, when the springs ran clear and the stripers spawned in the swift, cool waters. I joined her aboard the Anhinga Spirit, her 24-foot pontoon boat, to explore hidden springs, revisit family memories, and discuss what the river’s future might hold.

Jenny and I journey through the Middle Ocklawaha River, uncovering Florida’s wild beauty and the history that lingers around every bend. Paddling its waters becomes a lesson in surrender, moving with the river’s rhythm as it carries echoes of the past.

I explored the upper Ocklawaha River and found myself drawn to the contrast between its natural, meandering form and the sections shaped by human hands. I found in the river a reflection of myself — a longing to break free from constraint and find a path toward something wilder, more authentic, more free.

I’ve been curious about the people who support the Kirkpatrick Dam, so I coordinated a tour on the Rodman Reservoir with local resident Harvey McGuire.