Captain Erika Ritter remembers the Ocklawaha River before the destruction, when the springs ran clear and the stripers spawned in the swift, cool waters. I joined her aboard the Anhinga Spirit, her 24-foot pontoon boat, to explore hidden springs, revisit family memories, and discuss what the river’s future might hold.

Jenny and I journey through the Middle Ocklawaha River, uncovering Florida’s wild beauty and the history that lingers around every bend. Paddling its waters becomes a lesson in surrender, moving with the river’s rhythm as it carries echoes of the past.

I explored the upper Ocklawaha River and found myself drawn to the contrast between its natural, meandering form and the sections shaped by human hands. I found in the river a reflection of myself — a longing to break free from constraint and find a path toward something wilder, more authentic, more free.

I’ve been curious about the people who support the Kirkpatrick Dam, so I coordinated a tour on the Rodman Reservoir with local resident Harvey McGuire.