After months exploring the Ocklawaha River, I finally reached its end, the point where it meets the St. Johns River. But instead of a conclusion, I only found a beginning, a labyrinth of connection. This is the beginning of Field Notes.

Captain Erika Ritter remembers the Ocklawaha River before the destruction, when the springs ran clear and the stripers spawned in the swift, cool waters. I joined her aboard the Anhinga Spirit, her 24-foot pontoon boat, to explore hidden springs, revisit family memories, and discuss what the river’s future might hold.

Jenny and I journey through the Middle Ocklawaha River, uncovering Florida’s wild beauty and the history that lingers around every bend. Paddling its waters becomes a lesson in surrender, moving with the river’s rhythm as it carries echoes of the past.

It was the 4:15 a.m. alarm that finally succeeded in yanking me from the silence. I rolled out of bed and onto my feet.